Vintage Yohji Yamamoto


PARIS, France — In a season of colour, working almost solely in black seems once again, as it was in the early 80s, radical. For Yohji Yamamoto, of course, it is a given: he’s been the king of black for more than three decades. There was black, black and more black, with errant dashes of dusty blue and military green, in today’s show. The lack of colour brought all the attention on the shapes: bulbous, asymmetric drapings with a sculptural, impromtu air about them. The endless procession of dresses, coats and pantsuits was pure, vintage Yohji. It brought back memories of his early forays into the western scene. As such, it felt punchy just as much as it was melancholic. You can’t beat the passing of time.

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